Unofficially known and the ‘Johnson Project’!

Power Pole circuit

  • 1 input / 6 output Anderson Powerpole connectors
  • Fuse protection provided at the DC input
  • “POLARITY OKAY” LED (green)
  • All outputs are individually protected with automotive fuses and genuine fuse holders
  • All outputs are individually bypassed with 100nF caps
  • All fuses have Red LEDs which illuminate if a fuse is blown (and a load is connected)
  • Capable of supplying 30 Amps total DC current
  • Measured <200mV drop (worst case) @ 20A current
  • Estimated <300mV drop (worst case) @ 30A current
  • High quality PCB for easy construction:
  • 3oz. heavy duty double sided copper (3oz per square foot)
  • High-Tg rated industrial grade PCB (Tg=170degrees)
  • Gold plated for easy soldering (requires 60-100W soldering iron)
  • Design target of <7 degrees temp rise @ 30 Amps (measured 4 deg rise @ 20A)
  • Milled enclosure with all mounting hardware supplied

Board – this orientation has the LED row at the bottom of the picture.

  1. Place and solder the 7 x 680-ohm resistors and the 1 x 1kohm resistor, as per the component overlay
  2. Place and solder the 6 x 0.1uF bypass capacitors
  3. Place and solder the 7 x fuse holders, ensuring they are firmly seated flush with the PCB
  4. Prepare the Anderson connectors. The pack may contain two variations:
    • red/black cases already joined (which means relax); and
    • cases seperate. With these, slide the red and black poles together (there are two ways to do this and it must be done the ‘right’ way so the red is on the correct side (look at the photos) or to the single pre-assembled connector pair if supplied with the kit and duplicate this orientation for the others
  1. The two ‘stranded’ cables (leave the insulation on until inserted and seated properly to keep the wire neat). 
    • When inserting the metal tongue into the case, have the case so that its internal flat metal spring is under. Look at the ‘tongue’ you will insert and ensure the hook at the end is on the bottom. That hook will slide up the internal spring and slip over the end, thereby holding it in place securely. (you can remove them if careful with a sharp fine point to push the spring under the ‘tongue’ but it can be fiddly and not always successful). Sometimes the tongue needs to be held with some fine pliers to help insert it into place.
    • Then warm the insulating plastic and gently remove the insulation and neaten the wire. Insert into the circuit board and fold the power-poles to the board. Splay the wire slightly so it doesn’t fall out. Clamp the input connector to the PCB using the supplied 2mm machine screw, washers and nut. NB: the washer b/w the connector and board is to remove the potential for the connector to flex a little on connecting a cable. If you like, place a dot of glue on the nut to secure it a little more.

Part assembled. Note LED holes across bottom edge.

  1. Solder the stranded wires on the PCB using a hot 60-100W class soldering iron.
  2. All the ‘solid’ copper wire pins will be crimped to their ‘tongues’. Do NOT trim at this stage.
  3. Insert all the ‘tongues’ into their cases and check that they have clicked in and are secure.
  4. Ensuring the Anderson connectors are firmly held against the PCB to prevent sideways movement, insert into the output connector holes on the PCB, as per the overlay, and solder using a hot 60-100W class soldering iron. Inverting the board and doing one at a time can assist in holding the cases securely against the board.
  5. LEDs- do NOT solder yet. For the next two steps, the circuit board is facing you with the LED locations closest to you. The ‘FLAT’ side or the ‘short leg’ (the Cathode) of all seven LEDs are oriented to the left, as per the PCB Artwork image. LEAVE ALL LED LEADS LONG & UNTRIMMED. – AGAIN DO NOT SOLDER THE LEDS.
    • Insert the single Green LED into the POLARITY OKAY holes on the PCB, but DO NOT SOLDER. Inserting about 10mm and splay legs so they don’t fall out.
    • Insert the 6 x RED LEDs into the remaining LED PCB holes and again DO NOT SOLDER
  1. Screw the thread of the four brass standoffs into the moulded mounting holes on the inside of the enclosure lid. A tip, put a screw into each then use that with a screw driver to screw them home. Hold the brass with pliers to remove the screws.
  2. Turning the PCB upside down and whilst positioning into the four brass standoffs, ensure that all LEDs protrude through the holes and are pushed firmly until they are nicely seated.
  3. Mount the PCB into position using the supplied M3 machine screws
  4. When you are satisfied that all components are positioned correctly, then solder all LEDs
  5. Screw the ABS plastic base onto the enclosure lid using the supplied (4) self tapping screws
  6. Relax you are done and deserve a rest!
  7. Now to test under power. First – check all soldering to ensure no bridging of pads. GOOD LUCK, these have been a great addition to many shacks and kits.
  8. NB: Only use quality blade fuses that you trust. Some cheaper fuses have been seen to well exceed their rated current.

Completed project v2018

Alignment of the ‘tongue’ and case

Once inserted, check the copper tails are straight to help alignment, seating of the case and proper tension on the case springs.

Nearly there!